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Take a desert – burning
sand in the long summers, large tracts of dune-decked plains, with scarce water and even
scarcer vegetation – and create a habitation with the mind’s eye, if you can. And
then come to Rajasthan to see if your imagination can begin to match where reality takes
over.
Aeons ago, it is believed,
Shri Ram drew an arrow in his bow. The target was Lanka, the island capital where his
wife was held captive by the demon king Ravana. However, such was the power of its
annihilation that the gods pleaded with Ram to desist from his intended purpose.
Unfortunately, the arrow,
once drawn, could not be withdrawn. Ram pointed the arrow at a distant sea, and let it
escape. The heat generated be the arrow dried the sea, and in its place there arose a
desert, dry, arid, and hot.
Not surprisingly, myth and
reality coalesce. Fossils excavated in the
Thar desert
reveal the remains of marine life. And the sand on the surface of the desert ripples and
moves, forever creating new layers of waves as the wind dance across its surface. For in
its unconscious heart, perhaps, lies the memory of the sea that once shimmered in its
place.
It was to this arid
desert, centuries ago, that man journeyed. Its earliest inhabitants were part of an
urban civilization that arose 4,500 years ago. Recent excavations of the remains of the
Indus Valley Civilization reveal that the settlement penetrated deep into the heart of
the desert. Archaeologists and art-historian have theorised that the citadels and the
manner of building along narrow lanes that dissect each other at right angles are
uncannily similar to more recent settlements.
The
Indus
Valley
civilization went into decline, the causes for which still remain unknown, though there
is academic speculation on everything from earthquakes to invasions as the probable
cause. It is easy to imagine that nothing but the desert winds howled here for
centuries. In other parts of the world, others civilizations arose, and with them
developed a sophisticated network of trade that linked different continents. When
maritime activity arose, for the most part Europe was linked to Aisa along a trade route
that traversed West Asia and journeyed through the vast spaces of the desert to the rich
plains of Hindustan, and then on to the Hindukush mountains and beyond, to China.
These caravans attracted
supporting commercial services, and the sarais of the desert soon became settlements.
The invaders followed. And then came the settlers who, in return for the protection they
offered these caravans, levied a tax on the goods they carried through their territory.
So began the transformation of the desert.
The kings were Rajputs,
part of the Kshatriya clan of warriors who had once held much of
Hindustan
under their sway. But with internecine wars, the coming of stronger foes, and sustained
foreign invasions, their hold over their kingdoms began to totter, and their centres of
power collapsed. Bereft of their kingdoms, they could lay the foundations once more for
kingdoms they could command. The Thar became their refuge.
Here they came, the
Rajputs, to a land where the Aravalli hills lay lake a beam across the desert. And here
they built themselves magnificent citadels to their power. These kings, and the sons of
the kings, ruled once more, and today the region where their once-mighty kingdoms
commanded respect is called Rajasthan, the land of the rulers.
Rajasthan’s medieval
history is as rich in tales of valour and chivalry as it is in folklore. Deeply
religious, the people built, besides their fortifications and their palaces, splendid
temples, elaborate wells, handsome mansions, and memorials to their dead. Celebrated for
their valour on the fields, the rulers were also known for the sensitivity with which
they offered patronage to artists. No wonder, Rajasthan is also known as the world’s
richest centre for arts and crafts.
Today, little in Rajasthan
has changed because the history that was its past is inextricably linked with its
present. It was here the armies of everyone from invaders to those of the Marathas, the
Mughals and the British laid siege. While the kingdoms celebrated their victories, their
defeats were cataclysmic: the warriors went they lost, their womenfolk underwent the
elaborate of slightly macabre act of jauhar or voluntary acceptance of death by jumping
in a ritual fire-pit.
In later years, as peace
became common, the rulers created stately palaces outside their forts, most of which are
now open to visitors as hotels or museums. Camels and cars coexist as means of
transportation. The handcrating skills of the craftspeople cater to international
designer needs with the same expertise as local ones.
Which is why, sometimes,
when the wind sings, and the sands shift, and the
voice of a passing minsterl finds an echo to imagine oneself transported into an age
long ago when even fairy tale might have been ture.
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